Mind of a Bodyboarder

Sitting just on the outside of the break I catch a glimpse of what’s coming....my heart jumps to my throat in anticipation....as I come over the peak of the current pulse I see it, that beast of power just a couple of metres away....this is it, the one I’ve been waiting for....as I position myself in the shadows of its reach I feel the adrenaline beginning to circulate through my veins....I can’t think straight, all I know is that I’m ready to do this....the power builds up below me and suddenly I realise how high I am....a hint of doubt hits my thoughts, but is quickly overcome by a urging sense of determination.....I take the plunge....the speed is incredible, I put all my effort and weight into pulling myself up for the carving bottom turn....I’m running out of time now, the wall is rapidly building up in front of me....I quickly pull myself up and begin to fly....this is awesome!! How could I ever have doubted?? Suddenly I feel a slight change in the fluid below my body, it’s getting a lot more difficult to keep my balance....panic sets in....just as I regain my composure this overwhelming curtain of deep blue water completely envelopes me.....it’s all dark...where am I?? I look ahead and in the midst of the darkness I see a faint light, my only escape....I put all my effort in and gun forward...it’s getting closer, the light is getting brighter, I’m almost there……almost.....OUT!! I burst out of the mouth of the beast behind me having only just escaped....the feeling is incredible as I fly into the air over the back of my conquered foe......I almost didn’t make it, I almost lost....funny thing is....I turn right around and go back for another...   ;)